ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/22/09
By Tom Evans
Yo…. It’s impossible here…. Impossible… to imagine a more beautiful fall day.  The Glory that is Fall is at its fullness, as I type these paltry, inadequate lines to try and convey the wonder, to those of you who are far away and will miss the season with us.  Days like today are the reason I come to the Valley in the Fall.  The air is pungent with the smell of fallen leaves.  It’s intoxicating, and I find myself breathing deeply to better sense the aroma of the cool, crisp air, laden with the moist sweetness of Fall.  The light is so pure it is like looking through polarized glasses.  The colors are brilliant and sharp.  The Captain is astonishing in all its detail, seen through the crystal clear air. 

Most of the climbers on the Wall are my friends, or people I know, and it is even more meaningful to photograph them …like only I can do…. To present them with remembrances that will last through all their lives, memories that will live on, long after I have died.  My parents tried to teach me, as a child, that it is better to give than receive.  But I was a grubby, greedy little kid, to whom giving meant nothing and receiving everything.  As the years have passed, I have come to understand how right those wonderful parents of mine were.  As the photos are my gifts to the climbers, these reports are my gift to you.  Sharing a passion is one of the most rewarding things one person can do for another.  Share the passion friends!
So today’s report is brought to you by the ElCap Report…my gift to you.
Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you…unique in all the world!

Fall shots of the Day.

Yosemite Falls, Lost Arrow and a sweet oak tree.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Royal Arches, Washington Column and Half Dome seen from shore of the Merced River.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zodiac:  The most popular route in the park at the moment.  Graham and Chile are out of the Circle and headed higher.  I think it will be Peanut ledge for them tonight.
Graham starting the Mark of Zorro pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down Adam, Amanda, and Marsha did fix the pitch into the Circle yesterday, late, and bivied at the top of the BT pitch, as I guessed they would.  By the time they got everything moving and onto the next pitch, the afternoon was moving along.  Adam was on the sharp end leading up to the start of the Nipple pitch.  I think they will climb the Nipple pitch late in the day and bivy below the MOZ.
Amanda lowering out as their Junk Show awaits some attention.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down yet, the German, line jumpers, Marcel, Phillip, and Petra were up and on the route before I got there.  They were hauling to the top of the BT when I departed, a little earlier than usual, this afternoon.  They are having a good time it appears!
Marcel hanging out after leading the Black Tower pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lowest down the team of two from yesterday climbed most of the third pitch but then the leader came down for some reason and the other climber went up, cleaning all the gear, up to the high point.  I left then, but assume they are bailing.

The Trip:  I did spot Kevin, the speedy solo from yesterday, climbing the second bolt ladder this morning.  He exchanged some pleasantries, with Althea, as she came up to the stance and then departed for the top.  He was gone in a flash!  He did the climb in a little more than 24 hours!!  That guy’s good!
Kevin Prince finishing off the trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Althea is moving along well and did both of the bolt ladders by the time I departed.  I think she will spend one more night on the face and be off around 1pm tomorrow.

Lower down what looked like “handsome Mike,” but it isn’t, and a partner, stepped on the route with a vengeance and raced up the first four pitches, hauling right off the deck.  The leader was on the 5th when I left.  This should be a fun climb for this team.

Lost in America:  Scott had a difficult pitch this morning that dragged on into the afternoon.  It was the 8th I believe and it didn’t give up its secrets easily.  He was on that lead for several hours and must have been pretty tired afterward.  He is getting higher on the route and still has some difficult climbing to do.  He is up to it I think…. He better be!!
Scott Deputy, in the shit, on Lost in America.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NA Wall:  I watched Kevin and Cooney part of the day.  They climbed from Mazatlan Ledge in the morning, over the roof and up two more pitches by the time I left. 

Mescalito:  TC and Kevin  were on the face again today… I figured out what they do…. Late in the afternoon they rap down and  go up the East ledges to the top … then rap back down to Wino Tower and spend the night.  Saves a ton of jugging!  Anyway, the boys were without the distractions of the distaff side, this day.  TC wandered around looking at this and that and trying here and there…. Looks like a very tedious process to me.  I sure hope this line turns out climbable, because there are sure a lot of new, shiny silver objects where there was once only rock.  Only Tommy could or would take on such a huge project... his record indicates it, most likely, won't be in vain.
Tommy, looking for anything that goes, while Kevin looks in too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose/3D:  The Nose is essentially, empty, save for some lurkers around the first few pitches, who will most likely evaporate with the morning mists.
I did see the 3D team of Jim and Cameron  above the Changing Corners pitch, when I went out west this afternoon.  They should be off late in the day.

Muir:  Chris Bevins showed up in front of my camera this morning, climbing the pitch above Mammoth with his kit.  He must have had a long day yesterday!  He ran into a team of two who are headed, god knows where, and was last seen nearing Grey Ledges.  They may be 3Der’s.

Golden Gate:  Mason and Dude#1, Clay, got up at 2am to make a run at this great route, in a day.  By Hollow Flake the dream had gone away and they were soon down at the bridge making other plans for the rest of the day.

Salathe:  I did see the mixed couple climb over the Roof and Headwall to Long ledge this afternoon.  They could get off the route if they pushed it… or not.
The pitch to Long Ledge on the Salathe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dihedral:  Holy Smokes… these women are rippin it up on this classic, SW Face route.  I saw them at the Black Arch yesterday and when I went out west today, I spotted them on the pitch above the Flake!  Now that’s moving along folks!!  A couple more days should see them to the top.
Chantel leads the pitch above the Flake on the Dihedral Wall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lurking Fear:  This route is getting a lot of attention, even though it is a bit too far west to see from my usual hangs.  I saw a team on the 4th and one up past the Grand Traverse.  All others would be out of my view so who knows?

Feature of the Day:  Yesterdays was the Dawn Roof  aka the Harding Roof, on the Wall of the Early Morning Light route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Nice here at the bridge today.  In the afternoon some of the regular crew came by and hung out looking at the parties on the wall. It was fun just hanging around talking shit.
This is the LAST weekend of full fall conditions so you had better get here soon or miss out.
So that’s the way it is for this the 22 of October, 2009.
Later Tom