ElCap Report 10/20/11

ElCap Report 10/20/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… The good weather never ends here in Yosemite.  Still a bit warm for the season as reflected in the lack of shirts on the sunny side of the Cap today.  There are few parties on the rock, with the Nose back to being the most popular.
Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

ZM:  No one climbing here today but yesterday the “Bail of the Day”  was for Kevin Prince who retreated after a long fall on the second pitch that not only completely extended the screamer on the piece but destroyed the Alien he had placed!  You should see the gear!  I was going by today to get a shot of it but got busy and didn’t.  Fortunately he was uninjured.

Tempest:  Alik Berg blasted from the Bridge this afternoon for this excellent and difficult route.  He has already fixed two pitches and will be on it for good in the morning.  Best of luck to a great climber and man!

Nose:  The Nose had the action today.  Solo Dan, bivied at the start of the Gray Bands he reached at 3pm yesterday.  He climbed across the Gray Bands to Camp 4 and then up to the start of the Great Roof by 3pm.  There he encountered another solo, Mason Robison, from the 3D traverse and they talked for a while, before the guy climbed away.  Some speculation arose that they might join forces but neither seem to be interested.   And that was confired later when I was able to talk to Mason and Dan.   A little later, the team of two Spanish climbers,  who came up from ECT, met up with Dan.  Looked like they had their ropes entangled and both teams lost a lot of time in the process. 

The team in the Stovelegs yesterday did make ECT and were up on Texas Flake when I arrived.  They were blown past by Hans and Hondo, who were on the hill for another practice run up the route.  They did the King Swing in a different way than in the past… Scott Stowe!…they did it your way!!!  Anyway, they were looking strong and made good time too.  I talked to them at the Bridge afterward and they had a 3:16 for this run.  Some time next week, they will give the record a serious shot.

1)  Dan breaking down his bivy at the start of the Gray Bands.





























2)  Hans and Alex passing another team.





























3)  Hans looked strong and free climbed the Boot with no gear this morning.





























4)  Hans had a wardrobe malfunction as he started the Gray bands.  Shoelace repair.





























5)  Simulclimbing across the Gray Bands.


























6)  Hondo, looking awfully fit, on the Great Roof.






























7)  The team climbing above Camp 5 this morning.






























Salathe:  The only other route getting any action today was the Salathe.  Daryl and Colin climbed from Hollow Flake to the Ear before I left this afternoon.

In other news:  The Tree is peaking right now so if you can visit it within the next 3 or 4 days you should be pleased.  This weekend there is a celebration of the 50th anniversary of the climbing of the Salathe route.  The remaining first ascent team will be there as will other climbers of the day.
I will keep you posted as to when the record attempt will take place next week. 

On a lighter side… read in the paper today that the supposed “end of the world” on May 21, that didn’t happen, was off because of a small error in calculations…. So it will be happening tomorrow!  Thus we will be having an “End of the World” party at the Bridge tomorrow… come on out so we can all die together!

So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 20th day of October, 2011.
See you on the other side!!!

Thank you from an anonymous coward

As time passes, I become more impressed with what an amazing service you perform Tom. I didn't know I needed to read this kind of news until you started reporting it! I don't read any climbing mags, I do some slander on Supertopo, but I really enjoy the peregrine falcon's perspective on the El Cap climbing scene.

BITD ...

"the 20th day of October, 2001."
Thanks for taking us back in time ... that is some achievement!!

Best, Steve Clegg

Rooting for Dan!

Tough route to solo. Compounded by warm days.

No hot chicks at the top, but the ones down below are rooting for you!

Awesome shots of Hans and Alex

Thanks for the great shots Tom.

and yes, Hondo looks fit enough...


Cottage Springs is thrilled

Cottage Springs is thrilled to read that Daryl and Colin are moving up the Salathe. Thanks for keeping us posted!

Yeah hoo! Thanks for posting

Yeah hoo! Thanks for posting on Daryl and Colin. That's my husband up there (Daryl)! It's great to hear they are making their way up.