ElCap Report 10/19/2014

ElCap Report 10/19/14

By Tom Evans

Yo…  Several teams have recently topped out, but there is still some interesting climbing going on, in perfect weather.  Fall is starting to take shape here, with warming sunlight on cool days.  The Bridge is as cold as a meat locker, as it’s in the shade for most of the day, and I quickly retire to the meadow upon arrival.  Also, various trees and meadows are finally turning Fall colors.  So get here if you can, and enjoy the climbing and friendship of your fellow climbers.

Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you..unique in all the world!

Surgeon General:  Marek continues to work his way up this excellent, Shipley/Kohl route.

1)  Marek lounged later than usual and is seen here starting the long hooking pitch to the edge of the White Circle.





























2)  This long shot was taken in early afternoon and Marek was nearing the middle of the pitch he started earlier in the day.




























Zodiac:  Two solo climbers, and a two man team, are presently on the route.

3)  Aaron and Tomas climbed out of the Circle this morning and are seen here at the end of the MOZ pitch.





























4)  Lower down a new solo, Brant Didden, who fixed yesterday, is seen climbing at the start of the 5th pitch.  He was at the start of the Black Tower when I left.





























Sean the Brit, climbed from the top of the MOZ pitch and was on Peanut Ledge as I left this afternoon.  He could go higher, as the team behind him also has their eyes on Peanut Ledge.


5)  ZM:  I think Bud, seen here, and Phill will be off the route this evening, around dark.  They have climbed well and looked great too!






























6)  The two man team on the Trip is making good time and here they are seen in the middle of the route today.  They will make the first bolt ladder this evening.






























7)  Below the two man team the solo, Danny Coltrane, had the unpleasant task of jugging and hauling from the deck to the top of the 4th pitch today.  Lots of air and sweat, on that trip up.































8)  Jim Beyer is seen here cleaning the KB Traverse this morning and later in the day did the first pitch of the Spoon.  I wonder where he’s going?!





























9)  John and David bivied above the Cyclopes Eye and were soon on the big traverse over the abyss.  Here David is finishing the lower out.





























10)  Here they are on the last pitch of the route around 3pm today.  They have climbed well and pretty fast too!  Nice climb guys!






























11)  Nose:  I did see a team we have been watching for the last few days top out this afternoon.





























Lower I spotted a couple of guys trying a one day on the 3D.


12)  Shield:  Dave made Chickenhead ledge, as Josie tended the belay, early this morning.  Off this evening.





























13)  Salathe:  I did see these two climbers, Native Man (Jason Wells) and White Boy (Tim Klein), rapidly climb to the Spire and beyond.  Looks like a one day mission to me.  Here Native Man is cruising the nasty 5.7 chimney above Hollow Flake, while White Boy jugs with the pack.






























14)  White Boy had the pitch above the Ear which he quickly dispatched with some slick moves.






























15)  Coming back from the showers, this morning, I stopped by Cooks Meadow to take in some of the Fall beauty.





















































































In other news:  I was talking with Alex Honnold today, and he mentioned that he and Tommy had done the first, in a day, ascent of El Corazon, a few days ago.  They did 19 and a half, hours, in spite of some bumbling high on the route. 

Stay tuned for some breaking news in the next few days…hush, hush for the time being.

So that’s the way it is, on this Sunday, the 19th day of October, 2014.

Later, Capt. Tom



Walt Shipley

Please remember this route is not a Kohl solo.


From Tom...thanks so much for the reminder about Walt... what a great guy he was... we talk of him often!