ElCap Report 10/18/2019

ElCap Report 10/18/19

By Tom Evans

Yo… Surprise… the Nose is almost empty.. so all you folks constantly complaining about crowding… now is the time.  Lots of other stuff being climbed too.  I will be leaving the Valley this Sunday so come see me very soon if you want to get your shots directly from me.  Otherwise use the “contact” button above to send me your information about the climb.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

1)  Keith Forsyth is the solo climber on Mescalito and making good progress on the lower part of the route.  Here he is a couple of days ago just below Stork Ledge aka Anchorage Ledge.






























2)  The Seagull pitch can be taxing for a party of two much less a solo.  Here Keith is getting ready to lower out the bags after he has returned from leading the pitch.






























3)  Ottawa Doug is seen here on the Sun and Steel pitch on the Shortest Straw.  This is mostly a rivet pitch with the rivets pretty far apart, so get up in those top steps and reach high!






























4)  Marek Reganowicz is facing some thin nailing up on Born Under a Bad Sign.




























5)  Marek is in some interesting featured rock on this pitch on BUBS.





























6)  Climbing ranger, Brandon Adams and two others are re-establishing Zenyata Mondotta after some rock fall took it out of the active routes a couple of years ago.  Here they are pig wrestling at the start of the Lightning Bolt Roofs.  Love the dikes!






























7)  The woman in the ZM team is easily the best dressed and thus got her pic taken cleaning the LBR’s.






























8)  Up on the Nose, afternoon finds a couple of teams running together at the Gray Bands.  Tommy Caldwell is seen on the right edge of the shot.






























9)  Well dressed crew on the bolts to the Boot Flake on the Nose.





























10)  This shot from out west shows an unusual angle for a Boot Flake shot.






























11)  King Swinger styling the swing.





























12)  The “Eyes of ElCap” are taking a look at this team on their way to Magic Mushroom.






























13)  Afternoon belay low on Mescalito.






























14)  Sharp dressed Emily Harrington in the not-so-popular chimney above Hollow Flake Ledge on the Salathe.  I spotted her trying the entrance moves onto Golden Gate this afternoon… not so good for her.






























15)  Maple tree.





























16)  Maple branches.





























17)  Maple leaves.




























In other news.  All parties on several unmentioned routes are doing well.  We did have an accident at the base of the Nose yesterday.  YOSAR responded to he incident and I have heard nothing from them yet.

Remember I am about to leave until next year so find me now or send me an email.

Capt. Tom… last day of shooting is tomorrow.  There will be one more Report after this one.


I believe that the photo #12 is of a party on Flight Of The Albatross, not Magic Mushroom. The thin flake above the belayer is the beam crack, I remember it well from when I did it with Eric E.

Bill Leventhal

Well done Doug!

It was very nice to meet you! Congratulations for your next brilliant solo on El Cap! And thank you Tom for the great shots! You are famous not only in South Africa :) Lots of love, Magda