ElCap Report 10/17/2019

ElCap Report 10/17/19

By Tom Evans

Yo… Exceptionally stable weather has been the hallmark of this season. We have not had a drop of rain in daytime for the entire month I have been here.  The forecast continues to promise good weather.  I am leaving soon as I have other things on my agenda so keep that in mind and come see me in the Café morning or evening to get your shots…otherwise I can drop box them to you when I have time.  Lots of interesting climbing going on these days aside from the big trades… so come on out and see all the action or better yet get up on the big stone yourself.

Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you…unique in all the world.

1)  Ottawa Doug has made excellent progress in his solo of Shortest Straw.  Here is waking up to a new day in the White Circle.







2)  Later that day he climbed the Saw Blade Flake.  Here is a shot of him cleaning the flake the next morning.






























3)  Another early morning start for Neil Chelton and Maria Parkes sees Neil jugging up to their high point on Lost in America.





























4)  Zodiac has been very popular this season.  This team of three made a speedy and efficient ascent of this classic track.  This shot shows the 3rd man up getting big air on the Nipple pitch.































5)  Marek Reganowicz is seen here laboring on the 3rd pitch of Born Under a Bad Sign.  He is making steady but slow progress up this seldom done south east face route.






























6)  Up on the NA Wall I got this shot of an ElNino team who changed their mind on the route, and finished on the NA.































7)  Dolt Tower late in the afternoon, finds some teams changing plans.  Some will bail and some will continue.






























8)  Nine-year old child on Sickle Ledge that I hope will not be part of a new trend started by the parents of the 10 year-old who recently jugged the Nose and claimed a record what wasn’t deserved.  I guess she inspired other little children to “climb” ElCap too.  Within the last month two 9 year-olds have been seen on the Nose.  This is not a good thing parents. We do not need a competition between children being hauled up the rock by guides. Little children do not belong on ElCap.





























9)  The corner after the Jardine Traverse is seeing some interest as the regular route does get jammed at ECT sometime.






























10)  Tommy Caldwell is seen here prospecting for some holds on the new proposed free route up New Dawn.  He, Kevin Jorgeson and Alex Honnold have taken up the challenge.





























11)  Alex Honnold, jugging up fixed lines to get up to ECT and join up with the other guys to work the traverse pitch.





























12)  Piton Pete’s crew, Daniel Joo and Justin Lawrence are seen with him high on New Dawn.  These fantastic corners are to be part of the new free Dawn Wall route being worked by Alex, Kevin, and Tommy.





























13)  Well dressed team passing the roof pitch high on the NA Wall.




























14)  The Polish team is doing well on Native Son and are seen here high on the route at the end of the second bolt ladder pitch.






























15)  Over on the Nose I spotted this team climbing above the Glowering Spot.





























16)  This team of three is finishing up on the Salathe Wall.  This shot is of them at Long Ledge.






























17)  Interesting clouds passing over the Captain.





























18)  Lazing around in the ElCap Meadow.





























So that’s the way it is, on this Thursday Morning, the 17 day of October, 2019.

Capt. Tom … leaving soon.

Update on the Romanians

Hi, any update on the Romanian family (the 9 year old girl and her parents)? Met them on Sickle last week, and they were super chill.


From Tom:  Fortunately they bailed.  We don't need 9 year old kids on ElCap especially the most crowded route.


nice shot

shot 12 looks like it was painted... so beautiful!