ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/17/09
By Tom Evans
Yo.. Killer day, in a long string of killer days this past week.  Lots of visitors here in the park this weekend to see the Fall colors in combination with the renewed waterfalls.  Climbing conditions are great, if not a bit too warm.  If not now? When?

The Tree.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The Big Trades are still holding court on the Captain.  No rock fall today!
Today’s ElCap report … written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  This classic is getting the crowds now.  Lorna and Graham climbed from the top of the WC this morning and were last seen heading up the pitch above Peanut ledge this afternoon.  Off for sure this evening.

Lower down the mixed team of David and Carmen climbed the Black Tower and into the circle today, moving rapidly along.  They were on the Mark of Zorro pitch when I left.
David stretching for it, on the way to the White Circle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down yet the team of Big Adam and Alex, local Curry boys, are moving right along and were doing the BT as I left.
Adam reaching for the bolts on Zodiac’s 5th pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lowest down a team of three were fixing on the first two.

Lost in America:  I didn’t see the lad from yesterday fixing any higher, although I hear he is wanting to get another done before blasting.

Trip:  Althea didn’t go on Virginia as I originally thought but headed up the Reg.  She was working on cleaning and hauling the 5th for most of today.  Late in the afternoon she climbed the 6th pitch.
Althea doing a reachy clean on the 5th pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Althea lowering out for a date with the Black Cat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Mescalito or what?  Tommy was out on the sharp end of the drill today working on the free climb up Mescalito/Dawn Wall.  He and Dad rapped off in the early afternoon.

The Nose:  Seth and Brian climbed over the top around 11:30 this morning after a C6 bivy.  I talked to them later today and they said the NIAD team, from yesterday, bailed from C5 late in the day after I left.
There was a team of three Norwegians, in the legs today and they were not moving very fast… they were miles below Dolt before I left.

Shield:  In a strange twist of fate, I spotted Mark and John bailing from the start of the route this morning.  They hung out at the bridge after the bail and we had an nice time swapping stories and having a Cobra or two.  John was feeling ill yesterday and they went as high as they could before deciding to bail.  Mark was very enthusiastic about the climbing and felt strong all the way up.  John said he was relentless!
Behind them were two solo’s and a team of three, all of whom are going on the Shield.  Should be some nice shooting the next few days!
What not to wear when climbing the Roof pitch on the Shield.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe;  The Swedes climbed to the roof and off via Freerider instead of going for the Salathe headwall.  Below them a team of two climbed over the Roof and were working up the Headwall when I left. 
Roof pitch Salathe Wall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The team of three Europeans climbed in the rear of the pack were getting their leader to the start of the Roof pitch by late afternoon.
I did spot a solo a couple above the Hollow Flake ledge and he went up to the Alcove late in the day.

Feature of the day:  Yesterdays was Timbuctu Tower on several routes on the SW Face.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Quiet at the bridge today with more climbers around than Tourons.  All in all a wonderful day to be here in the Valley.  The Nose is pretty empty and the Salathe will be so soon enough.  Charge!!
Mark and John set the pace by bringing all their waste down today, including about a gallon of urine!
What we all should be bringing down from the Captain.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They also cleaned out some cig butts from the cracks, as it seems some of our smoking friends find the cracks to be a convenient trash can.  Pitiful! 
So that’s the way it is for this the 17th day of October, 2009.
Ha, Ha… I’m here and you aren’t!
Later Tom