ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/13/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Wow! The weather cleared last evening and today was just sensational! The definitive Fall day here in Yosemite. The line up is full of cars and the routes are getting so much action that it is difficult to keep track of what is going on. The ElCap Shuttle ends tomorrow so factor that into your plans. I took over 200 shots today and under my “Best of the Day” were 48 shots… for space reasons, I can’t use a lot of the shots I liked so the ones below are representative of the days work. The lighting was fantastic, so you are in for some cool stuff.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Tangerine Trip: The two guys who climbed yesterday during the cold, cloudy conditions, are high on the route today and will be off tomorrow for sure.

1) Typical pitch below the bolt ladders on the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

Native Son: Cheyne and Mark are motoring along and were about to start the Machine Head ladders as I departed.

2)  Cheyne leading the “Equator” this morning. It looked like he fell earlier and was just back on the rock. The corner he is in is usually a nasty sewer type pitch but is dry this season.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

Lower down Marek climbed the second pitch while I was there and has the difficult third, the so called “Coral Sea” pitch, to do this evening.

3)  Hooking ahead on the 2^nd pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

North American Wall: Jack and Rody were to start this route yesterday and now I see three people on the 4^th pitch. Another team of, Sanne and Stanley are to start about now. Maybe there is some running together of the parties.

4)  Starting the 4^th pitch on the NA.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

Mescalito: The team of Max and Pete climbed to the start of the Molar Traverse while I was shooting.

Lower down the team of Oli Warlow, and an Irishman named Paul are on the route for good. Oli was leading quickly today to make up for some lost time when the third member of the team bailed with an attack of the nerves.

5)  Oli leading the 7^th in excellent lighting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose: Several teams are on the Nose but we see so many shots of that route that I am going to leave out some good ones so other routes can be seen.

High on the route, Sonny Trotter was working the Changing Corners on a top rope today.

In the lead from yesterday was the mixed Spanish team of  Jose Esquirol and Gencidna Meneses, who climbed well and were headed onto the Pancake Flake as I left the West.

Below wereGerman women, Charlie and Yvonne. They are movers but I don’t think will finish the route in the 3 days planned. They were headed to Camp 4 as I departed.

Below them, a couple of teams came up the Legs, lead by Alaskan NIAD hopefuls who bailed from Dolt.

The lower part is a mystery I don’t wish to know about!

Muir Wall: Suddenly wildly popular, this mega classic is getting the attention it deserves for a change.

A French team of, Nico Potard and partner, climbed rapidly to the start above the Grey Band and diverted to the amazing corners of the Cosgrove/Smith variation. They did some free climbing and ledged up in spectacular surroundings.

6)  Starting the classic upper part of the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

 

 

7)  Resting among the beautiful corners.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

Lower down, Hazel Finley, James McHaffie, and a third climber made it to the traverse this afternoon. I assume they have free climbed thus far. They were just getting to the start of the upper section as I left.

8)  Above all these parties was the Ninja Boy solo climber, Matt Erdmann. He was working the upper dihedral, getting close to the roof capping the corner as I departed. This is a shot of him but notice the ramp off to the right. There is a fixed line there and below a ladder of bolts to get to the ramp. What is up with that stuff?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

There are others starting on the route, including Canadians Doug and Luke.

Come on out Muir lovers!

　

9)  Shield: The Mike’s finally climbed to Chicken Head ledge this morning and are pushing higher. I don’t think they will be off today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

 

 

10)  Salathe/Freerider: The Salathe Team, from recent days, climbed the headwall to Long Ledge this afternoon. A Freerider team slipped under them and were soon parallel to them as you can see in this shot from out west.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

 

 

A Salathe team climbed from Hollow Flake to the Alcove while I was shooting.

The Kauffman Brothers, Jowel and Neil were on the Freeblast portion and will meet up with Mash Alexander and the kit, on Heart ledge this evening.

Hole World: I did see Kate leading something like the 3^rd pitch, maybe, as Erik Eriksson belayed.

11)  Lost World: I did get a glimpse of Steve and Cory way above their ledges this morning and assume the whole team is making for the top to tag and rap down, clearing off their kit on the way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

 

 

Lurking Fear: I saw a party on the 4^th this afternoon.

12)  A couple of scenics for you… the first is Cook’s meadow early this morning and the second is the Sugar Maple that makes the Fall so cool here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news: Very busy on the Cap but not at the Bridge. The Ask a Climber ends for the season on Monday. I will still shooting but not glued to the Bridge all the time. If my van is there then I will be somewhere in the immediate area. So come on by! There are several teams and solo’s who are going big on routes like, PO, Straw, Trip, Dihedral, Never Never Land, etc etc… so the news will just keep getting more interesting, as climbers ride the wave of great weather all the way into November.

So that’s the way it is, for this Saturday, the 13^th day of October, 2012.

Later, Tom