ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/12/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… The weather did change today as predicted but as of 5pm has not crashed.  It was warm this morning with overcast skies and moisture in the air.  I went down to the bridge after breakfast and checked on the parties still on the wall.  Most teams got the word and have bailed or are presently making a run for the top.

I went down to the Captain last night, around 10pm, and saw the lights of the remaining parties high on the Wall.  There were three sets of lights in the vicinity of Camp 5 and we later learned that the team of three had dropped their rack!  I have that rack in my van.  Fortunately, the team of two that was dogging up the route behind them, caught up and the two teams combined and are working together to get off before the storm breaks.  At 4:30pm I saw them reaching the Alcove, which is just a pitch and a half from the top.  So far the storm has held off but is threatening. 
I also saw lights over on the Salathe around the level of the top of ECS.  That would be Skiy and partner who went up yesterday to work on the pitches above the Spire.  They were last seen rappin toward the Ear when I left.
Off to the East I spotted  two sets of lights that turned out to be Karl and Kevin, already established on Peanut Ledge, and SAR Jacob and Montana Kevin who caught and joined them later in the night.  When I checked this morning they were all on Peanut and had a leader out on the next pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Erik Sloan got a call from them this morning saying that two of the climbers were injured and they would need some help getting down.  Ivo and “Big Fall” James, volunteered to go up and set off late in the morning for the top of the route.  I later saw them on top as the team was starting the last pitch.  They have climbed slowly but cautiously today.  The injuries are not serious, consisting of sprained ankles, thus making hauling the loads down the East Ledges difficult, so the lads are up to help with the carry.

High on the Trip I saw Regan, this morning, lead the first of the two bolt ladders and later this afternoon seemed to have decided to stay put for the storm.  He is the only climber on the wall who does not know the predicted severity of the coming storm.  He is also the only one who will not get off before it hits.  He is a tough, experienced climber and should be able to get through the ordeal..
Regan, leading the first bolt ladder.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Althea, solo fixing on the Trip did another one today and is at the Top of the 4th.  Maybe VA or reg Trip...undecided
I drove back to the lodge after checking out west, where I could see no one on the routes.  I stopped at my favorite tree, the Sugar Maple across from the Chapel and visited with it for a while.  A wonderful, old tree it is too.  I got some shots of the lower leaves, now in color and headed for the Café to write the report and process images. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is partly sunny here at the lodge and if the storm could hold off a few more hours then all the teams, save solo Regan, should be out of danger and down from the Captain.  There was a cold, stiff breeze this afternoon at the bridge and the sky was quite threatening.

Today’s feature of the day:  Yesterdays was the Tower to the People on Golden Gate, originally on the Heart Route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Not much other news at the moment.  We are just waiting to see what the weather brings.  I will be out and about checking the Cap for a final time toward dark and paying particular attention to my good friend Regan and hoping he can stay warm and dry.
So that’s the way it is for this the 12th day of October 2009.
Later Tom