ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/1/14

By Tom Evans

Yo…Killer weather is the order of the day!  The Nose is mobbed and the Salathe almost vacant!  The other occupied routes are entertaining single parties only. 

Sorry for the late postings of the reports of late.  I have been using the Lodge internet and it is only productive before 4pm so after shooting, processing images, and writing the report it is too late to post it that day.  So have patience please.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Caleb and Jeff climbed from the MOZ bivy to Peanut Ledge this afternoon and are just motoring along.

1)  Caleb and Jeff finishing the pitch to the start of the Peanut Ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Virginia/Trip:  Neil and Maria were moving faster today as I think they want to get off the route.  Here Neil is leading the first pitch of the day.  I think they will be very close to the top this evening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  Rarely has there been a bigger traffic jam on the Nose than on this day.  All the teams from yesterday actually continued climbing today with none bailing… not good..we expect half to bail so the route will not be so crowded!

3)  Doug and Dennis bivied at Camp 5 with a YMS guide and client team.  The guide, Mark Grudon, and his client took off first.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Mark and Client above the Changing Corners pitch this afternoon.  Off by now!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  A NIAD team blew by everyone this morning and made a daylight ascent with ease.  Here they are on the Jardine Traverse.  Who were those guys?!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Fast NIAD team climbing the pitch above the Glowering Spot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  The Hungarian team of Tamas and Ben also were trying a NIAD today.  Here is Ben climbing the pitch above Dolt Tower this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  The Hungarians went to the Jardine Traverse as ECT was jammed with slow bag teams.  Here Ben is leading the long pitch up to Eagle Ledge.  Tamas lead the second half of the climb.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  As you can see, ECT was a mess.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Here the herd of climbers is lined up to pass the King Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Mark and Skot and moving right along on Son of Heart.  Here Mark is leading through some confusing looking terrain.  Hope the topo is accurate!  Unfortunately I am only “out west” for a half hour or so each day and thus have very limited shots of this team and route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Salathe:  The Salathe is as empty as it was full yesterday.  I did spot the team of Andy and Kalvin doing the Hollow Flake this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  Up high Neils Tietze and Liz were working on the Headwall when I shot this of Neils, this afternoon.  He made a good run at the long pitch and I don’t presently know if he sent it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14)  In other news:  Deano Rollins (NZ) and partner Shanya Brown, returned this morning, from the 22 hour NIAD they did yesterday.  I gave them Cobras and carbos and they had a nice day basking in the glory at the Bridge!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday the 1^st day of October, 2014.

Later,

Capt. Tom