ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/09/12
By Tom Evans

Yo… lots of climbers still on the Stone.  However there looks to be a low probability that it could rain in the next couple of days.  So the cautious are holding back a bit while the driven are headed up.  The SE Face is still empty from Mescalito, east.  Polish hero, Marek Raganowicz, fresh from a epic ascent of the Polar Sun Spire, Baffin Island, is here to solo Native Son, starting in 2 days.  Old timer Mark Hudon, just down from Lost in America, is also going on Native Son, but with recently famous, Cheyne Lempe.  The whole face is empty and both teams are going on the same route!!  Such is Yosemite climbing!

Today’s ElCap Report …written just for you …unique in all the world!!

Mescalito:  The Austrian team of Gerald and Ewalt, easily made the Bismarck ledge yesterday and even fixed the pitch above.  They climbed well today too.  Off tomorrow, late I think.
1)  The Austrians, climbing high on the route this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down, Durrango boys, Max and Pete, have 4 fixed but Pete stumbled in camp last night, drove a stob into his hand and headed for the clinic this morning.  They will start tomorrow if possible.

Nose:  I picked up a flash of color wheeling past a party on the Great Roof this morning… turns out it was Cody Sims and Sean Leary on their way to a 4 and change hour ascent of the route.  Strong team for sure.
2)  Cody cruising the notorious 11c end to the Pancake Flake pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Sean making short work of the pitch out of Camp 5.  He even manned up and wore a colorful shirt for a change!  He seems to be climbing the Nose a couple of times a week lately.  Maybe he has plans?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  The women’s team of Jackie and Jen climbed from Camp 4 this morning, but got stuck in the back of the line, so were late on the Roof.  Camp 5 tonight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Durrango boys, who were on New Dawn and bailed to the Nose yesterday, climbed up to, and passed the King Swing and promptly bailed again!  That’s two bails in two days!!  So they are our unanimous choice for …
5)  BAIL OF THE DAY!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Several other teams continued on the route and a team of three came up pretty fast and were on the way to the Roof by afternoon.  Other teams, from the last couple of days, moved up the upper dihedral this afternoon.

Shield:  The Swiss couple moved along well today.  The guys leads everything and is quite good.  He even goes down a ways, when she starts cleaning, to clean the upper part of the pitch, to save time.  The wind held off until about 11am and after that a gale blew for the rest of the day.  
6)  The Swiss woman, cleaning and then jugging to the belay.  Notice the rope flying off her.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down:  The “Mike’s” climbed from the belay over the roof to the end of the Groove pitch as I watched.
7)  Mike cleaning to the belay below the Groove pitch this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Muir:  The solo, Ninja climber, continues up the great climbing above the Grey Bands.  He looks solid and I see nothing to keep him from having a great time.
8)  Ninja man, coming back to his kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down I spotted Hazel and James McHaffie working the 4th pitch this afternoon.  I thought I had seen them higher but was mistaken.
9) James working the moves as Hazel brings in the rope.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Sunkist:  The French team moved off the steep headwall this afternoon, in harsh conditions.  Off tomorrow.
French team, high on the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Golden Gate:  Brits, Dan and Callum, worked the Golden Desert and A5 traverse pitch today.  They were far from sending, but worked with determination.
11)  Golden Desert pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Lost World:  Pete and partner Cory McClean were spotted a few up on the route with a normal looking set of kit.  
12)  Lost World, shot from the Bridge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I did spot Erik Erikson on lead, low, perhaps, on Hole World, this afternoon.  I hear he is climbing with Big Wall Kate.  The conditions didn’t look nearly as bad as those higher on the wall.

In other news:  High winds have dominated the Captain of late.  The winds come up a little before noon and blow hard for most of the day.  So beware, and prepare!  The Bridge has been pretty devoid of Tourons as it is windy and cold too.
On a personal note:  Although I don’t recollect the conversation last Spring.  I told Andrew Bardon, that it had been one of my wishes, since childhood, to have a rock from the Famous, Yellow Band, high on Mt Everest.  The rock arrived in the mail today!!!  Thanks so much Andrew!!  It will have a special place in my home. 

Also the “Princess of the Bridge” Denise Umstot sent me a box of home made cookies today.  They will not appear at the Bridge.  
So that’s the way it is, for this Tuesday, the 9th day of October, 2012.
Later,
Tom