ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/08/12
By Tom Evans

Yo… Cold weather arrived today on the back of a hard wind from the west.  The puffy’s were out and the ropes were whipping about on the SW Face’s Headwall.  However the action was good on the Cap and more teams are pressing forward.  Rain and possible snow are in the forecast for the end of the week.  So we will see what develops.  

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you …unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Roger and Robin finished the route today after a bivy on Peanut last night.  Alice is shuttling her kit, in parts, to the deck.  True to solo tradition she is carrying everything herself even though several others have volunteered to help.

Mescalito:  This team is moving along well.  They were up and at it early and pressed the attack all day.  They arrived at the Bismarck well before dark and could climb off tomorrow.  My European friends say they look Italian… I have no idea… Turns out they are the Austrian Guides, Gerald and Ewalt,.  Go Austiains!!
1)  Waiting at the belay to haul kit, in mid afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Dawn:  The 4 Durango guys who have been coming up the right side of ECT climbed onto to the Tower today and two of them set off for the traverse.  They bailed after one pitch and have switched to the Nose, it would appear.  I think the “convict” team was going to the Nose all along.
2)  New Dawn team before they bailed.  Notice the lawn chair for a belay seat!  Classic old school!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Convicts on the loose on ECT.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose/3D:  Both routes are getting some heavy traffic these days.  Mostly bag teams on the Nose today.  Stew said that Sonny Trotter was up working the Great Roof with Jesse Hughy.. I don’t know…
4)  Convict team on the top of Texas, as team in front hauls kit ahead of them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The women’s 3D team made it over the traverse and were at Camp 4 around 4pm I estimate.
5)  Climbing the pitch to Camp 4 from the west side of the pillar.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Muir Wall:  The mystery all Black clothing, Solo, climber turned and went to the Muir this morning.  He climbed two pitches while I was shooting.  He looks to be competent.
6)  Mystery Man on the Muir.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down I hear that British woman climber, Hazel Findlay, and James McHaffie are giving the Free Muir a go.  I saw them above the Grey Ledges this afternoon.  There are a couple of other parties in that area too.

Shield:  The Dark team is a Swiss couple who seem to be getting along well enough, if not fast.  They have been hampered by strong afternoon winds since they arrived on the headwall.
7)  Swiss couple on the Groove Pitch in calm conditions this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  I was able to get the angle on the Swiss team and the French Sunkist team this morning, managing to get them in the same shot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Lower down on the Shield “The Mike’s” showed up heading for the traverse to the Roof as I shot from out west this afternoon. Mike Ierien and Mike Tupper are the "Mike"s".  Now those boys know how to stand out for the camera!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunkist:  This team starts out dressed well and by afternoon is bundled up in dark clothing.  I sympathize completely but would like them to invest in better looking cold weather gear!  This team is a French team… seems like the French have made the last ascents of this route.  There must be a favorable topo making the rounds over there!
10)  It was the Iron Age on Sunkist, this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Golden Gate:  A strong team climbed to the start of the Golden Desert pitch today.  I don’t know what their plans are but they looked strong on the stuff below.
11)  The team hauling kit to the top of the Tower of the People.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I didn’t see anyone on the Salathe but did notice a party way out west, low on something.  It wasn’t Steve or Pete… so I don’t know.

12)  Mystery of the Day!!  What the hell is going on here?  Ropes seem to be where they shouldn’t be … you make the call!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Heroes of recent ElCap routes hung out today at the Bridge.  Deputy came down all cleaned up and told the story of his big plunge yesterday.  The guys he flew past confirmed the events as told and said they felt the fall was over 100ft!  Dave and Ben were down from Reticent and Max and Mark from LA.  Several others were down from the Nose and Salathe.
Looking forward to some moisture to wash off the place and give me a day to catch up on computer work.

So that’s the way it is, for this Monday, the 8th day of October, 2012.
Later, Tom