ElCap Report 10/03/11

ElCap Report 10/03/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Typical Fall day here in Yosemite.  Sunny, breezy, and cool all day.  Nice clouds too.  A really strong wind blew through here around 11am today and most likely signaled the arrival of the cold front expected to bring harsh conditions to the Sierra.  A few teams on the wall will have to tough it out, it would appear.  I did speak to Big Wall Kate and EE who fixed 4 on Mirage and came down to wait out the storm.  They wanted no part of it over on the slabs out West.  So we wait….

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world.

Zodiac:  Ottawa Doug and Hugo made a liar out of me today as they finished their push on this route.  It will be in 30 hour range.  Good for them.
Ottawa Doug climbing the ramp to Peanut ledge this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down the Swedes Petter and Stefan continued to work on freeing Zodiac, Huber style.  You may remember them from last year when I got some nice shots of them on Freerider, especially at the Monster crack.  They worked the MOZ and higher and will most likely get the hell out of there soon.
 Stefan working the Mark of Zorro pitch, while Petter belays.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trip:  The Lithuanian team of Gedas and Savle worked up to the long corners in the center of the route today after a bivy at the top of 6 last night.  Savle lead the pitch off the bivy this morning in good time and style.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Higher up Dave and Coby are heading toward the bolt ladders and could be off tomorrow mid day if they hustle, and they best do so, as the upper reaches of the Trip are not safe in a hard storm.

Aurora:  Dave and Luke are behind schedule a bit and will most likely have to bivy again, unless they just go for the top tonight.  They were above the Golden Finger of Fate when I left today.
Luke leading past the Finger this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dave leading later in the day while Luke stays bagged.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nightmare on California Street:  A couple of guys are fixing on this not yet repeated route.  I have not seen them yet, but my spies, who patrol the base hourly, in search of interesting news for you readers, say they are not going to stay up in the weather.

Mescalito:  Regan moves steadily up the route but is not going at a rapid rate and will get caught in the storm unless he really kicks in the burners.  He may find himself with all the water he ever wanted in a day or so!  He is a tough guy and will be ok but he seems to be a weather jinx of late!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tommy and Kevin:  They are in their ledge at Wino Tower it would appear and when I talked to Tommy yesterday he mentioned that he would most likely be staying up in the storm as they like the colder conditions.  Ok…

Nose:  The multitudes have moved higher on the route now.  There must be 5 parties above the Gray Bands now.  Several will get off today and a couple others might not but should be poised for a go at it in the morning.
Rock, Sky, and climber.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Working through the Gray Bands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you think losing a thumb hurts then try losing your head.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I would bet it was not as windy where you were as it was on the Nose today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down a lone team worked its’ way up the Stovelegs to Dolt Tower this afternoon.  It was Nick Rosen, of Sender Films, and his girlfriend, TV personality, Svetlana.  They were moving steadily along with Svetlana doing the hard leads and Nick dragging along in aiders!  It was a sad sight to behold!
Nick, doing the best he could in the Legs!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe/Freerider:  The throngs have finally departed this area.  Nico and friend and a band of others were seen hauling kit up the headwall and over the top this morning.  News is that Nico sent the Headwall pitches, as did his close friend Sean.  
Bigger news is that Mayan did send the Headwall yesterday morning and has thus climbed the Salathe route, via Monster variation, thus becoming the second woman to do so, the first being the remarkable, Steph Davis.  Congratulations to all the senders!
Buggin out, Salathe Headwall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  The storm is the hot topic of conversation these days.  The boys in green think it will be a super big one so beware!  If you have loved ones on the Walls then maybe give them a cell phone call and tell them to hurry up and get the hell out of there.  The teams I see who might be caught up high, are all experienced climbers, well equipped and able to get through the conditions.  I didn’t move to Lower Pines after all, having decided to hang in Camp 4 for the rest of the season so I can be with friends.
Did you happen to catch 60 minutes yesterday?  Our local guy, Alex Honnold, was on with climbing shot earlier this year.  I didn’t see it as I was busy with other stuff and have no TV access.  
So that’s the way it is, for this Monday, the 3rd day of October, 2011.
Later,
Tom
 

Ha! THe funny thing is it

Ha! THe funny thing is it actually occurred to me to stop by the bridge before we launched on the Nose and request that Tom not make fun of me. He flashed me a serious look and replied, "I'd never do that." Oh well, i'm proud to be on the ol' ECR anyhow. Glad to have you back Tom. - Svetlana's belay slave
 
Funny thing Nick, was that it would never have occured to me if you hadn't brought it up!!  Then I had to do something!... Plus the report needed some humor as there wasn't anything much going on with the storm coming up... Good decission on your part BTW.  Thanks for being a good sport!
Regards Tom

I heard the Nightmare boys

I heard the Nightmare boys are finnishing up p2 tommorow and setting up house to sit through it, real nightmare was they got tooled for green. any care packages happly accepted. guys in mid 50's have a hard time finding

Good luck to everyone

Good luck to everyone waiting out the up coming storm! Hunker down, stay dry and stay happy, it's only supposed to last a couple of days! Of course, it's supposed to clear up and be nice just in time for me later in the week!

Yeah!