ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/02/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Soooo goooood today!  The perfect fall climbing day.  If the leaves had turned it would have been one of the best on record.   The pontificators  are still calling for a chance of rain tomorrow or Sunday.   I needed a second opinion so the Report would not lead anyone astray.  So I contacted Erik Sloan, well known, Master Astrologer, of the 22nd order, and since there are only 24 orders you know you can trust this man, he knows his shit!  He was working at the Bridge but took time from his labors to do a full work up on his Master Charts and Sacred Dart Board.  The Darts were thrown and the charts consulted … he said we would have one day with a high chance of measurable precipitation… sometime in the future… within 4 months.  Well, it sounds like Mars and Jupiter are aligned to me, so be warned!!  It just might rain, snow or be clear.  You can now go forth with confidence!

The Cap is getting some traffic and the Rats are leaving the parking lots and bars all over the Valley to take their place, in line, on the Big Trades.  I have observed over the past days that there is not a big influx of Cubicle Pukes into the Valley and have thus concluded that the Cubicle Puke Revolution is a failure…. So crawl back into your cubicle and continue reading the Report, as it is your only relief from the drudgery of your pointless existence.
This Report is brought to you by Cubicle Pukes all over the world who tried to revolt but, sadly, were not successful.
I raise my last Cobra in your honor!!  Cubicle Pukes!!  Here, Here!!
Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you…. unique in all the world!!

On the Water Front:  Stevie G is keeping pace with the speedy ladies team on the route to his left.  He lead some interesting looking rock today, higher on the route.  The black streaks he was in match perfectly his really cool looking, black shirt!  Cal, next time, please dress your man properly!  Steve lead what looked to be miles of rivets on the 8th pitch.  This climb seems to have no named features.  Maybe I should make some up to give the thing some local color.
Steve and that damned black shirt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve in rivet land.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eagles Way:  Stevie should take a lesson from the very fashionable team of ass kicking women on this route.  Holly and Lorna are dressed to the nines.  Lorna has a smart looking, yet functional, extended arm, pull-over and a matching orange helmet.  All the rage this season, both on and off the rock.  Holly has a divine, little red number with protector sleeves and a helmet in a complementary, sky blue.   Remember, if you dress well, you will climb well.  To prove my point, all you had to do watch them running up the technical pitches in the center of the route.  Holly lead the inverted staircase pitch in a flash and Lorna destroyed the pitch above.  I left early so … they may have topped out for all I know!
Holly reaching for the next placement on the Inverted Staircase.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lorna doing some strenuous cleaning on Eagles Way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zodiac:  Turns out that the Flagstaff Fliers spent the night on Peanut Ledge last night as they had not quite consumed all beers they hauled and didn’t want to be cited for “Topping out under the influence”.  They were going over  the top a bit after 3 pm.
Topping out on Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down the Canadian Mafia, once again sent Ottawa Doug out on point.  He is like a mother hen watching over her chicks up there.  They climbed to Peanut Ledge around 3pm and I think may stay there for the night. 
Jugging to Peanut Ledge under Doug’s watchful eye.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower yet the two man team climbed the Nipple Pitch this morning and were dusting off the Mark of Zorro when I left.
Lower still a solo was seen avoiding the first two pitches by doing the so called “direct start”.  As my feelings on this variation are well publicized, I won’t drag you through the harangue again.

The North American Wall:  The Italian team of Iacco and Fabio climbed from the top of 3, past Mazatlan ledge to easy street.  They seemed to be hating the hauling but are making progress.

New Dawn:  Englishman, Chris Bevins is killing it on the start of this route.  He reached Lay Lady Ledge in early afternoon after just fixing one pitch and blasting in late morning yesterday.  The lad seems to have an endless supply of energy.  I think this is his first solo on the Captain.  He has some sweet brick red pants and a killer turquoise shirt.  
Chris Bevins rappin back to his bags a couple below LLL.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Nose:  The traffic pattern is filling rapidly on this historic route.  It is impossible to keep track of all the parties at this point.  All those who were expected to bail, didn’t. 
From the Top:  From way out west, I saw the two parties of three from yesterday climb the last pitch around 3:30pm.  Below them a party of two was climbing to Camp 6.  This party climbed the GR late this morning.  Seems like another party was right behind them.

The “local” team of two from yesterday climbed above ECT, nailed the KS and was seen climbing above C4 as I departed. 
Below them a team of two climbed the Legs rapidly, then smoked to ECT and was last seen heading to the Boot around 4pm.  C4 for these guys tonight.
Climbing the Boot Flake late in the day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At least three teams were dragging up the Legs this afternoon and may be candidates for a hasty retreat around sundown.

Salathe:  A team of three was seen climbing slowly up from HFL and were doing the Ear when I left… maybe the Alcove tonight.

Octopussy:  I checked twice, cleaned the lens and swiped the camera sensor but he was still there…. Pete lead a pitch this afternoon!  He lead the pitch to the ledge at the junction with Never Never Land.  Looked pretty cool too.

Sunset from home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Nice at the bridge today.  I hung out with my man ES and did some killer shooting later I the afternoon, from way out west.  The Touron population seems to have slacked way off now and we climbers again have the bridge to ourselves. 
Big news filtered down from the Dome yesterday.  Zack Milligan, long time, and long suffering local, soloed the Regular route on the Dome in 2:26 yesterday.  He took a short rope to use on only two sections of the route where pendulums were required.   Joe Link was along to verify the time.
Congratulations to this, under the radar, local!!  DP and HF… eat your hearts out!
On a sad note, long time SAR member Jon Gleason is leaving to go back into the world tomorrow.  Jon is a unique person, about whom I have heard only good things.  He will be sorely missed.  Seems like the old crew at SAR is vanishing into the cosmic abyss.  They will all be missed!
Hopefully the forecast showers will not materialize this weekend and we can go into an Indian Summer, far into the month.  Come on out!
So that’s the way it is for this the 2nd day of October 2009.
Later Tom