El Cap Report 10/18/08

ElCap Report 10/18/08

by Tom Evans

Yo... It started out cloudy and a little threatening but it soon became apparent that the weather was going to hold just fine. In fact it was perfect for wall climbing. Unfortunately the cliff was pretty empty, as here in Yosemite, the very mention of rain sends the monkeys scurrying for their cages! So there isn't a lot to report on. Today's report is brought to you by Bob and Ryan, who are just down from their ascent of Zodiac and spent the day basking in the glory here at the bridge.

The quote of the day comes from a Touron who, when presented with the two conquering heroes, said with amazement, "You two climbed El Capitan???" The monkeys went wild with that one!! For most of the day they took all the Touron questions and gave a clinic on wall climbing while KFC and I slouched nearby in our comfortable chairs!

Tomorrow they return to being Cubicle Pukes, back in the world!

So put the dog out, tell your significant other to take a break, and settle in for another trip to the Captain to see who are the sailors and who are the bailers... For you, right now, today's ElCap Report...

Pressure Cooker: Alik and Nicki were up on this somewhat obscure but difficult route, recommended by none other than Ivo himself, who sang the praises of this ugly looking inhabitant of the upper east side. They are moving right along and seem to be in cruise control. Is this a Klaus route? I think so but have not seen a topo for it. Well my readers tell me that it is indeed a Klaus route and back in 1990 too. You know folks, Klaus routes are still way out in front on anything being done these days and some of them were 20 years ago. Easily the greatest solo climber to ever climb ElCap. You are the man!!!!

Nicki leading out while Alik takes a lunch break

The Trip: This two man team looked like they were going to race up the wall but for some reason ground to a crawl at the 7th pitch when the bags were hauled and docked a half hour before the second could get the pitch cleaned. Well... sometimes a diamond, sometimes a stone!

End of the 5th on the Trip

Starting the 7th pitch on the Trip

Nose: There was one party of two who had been on the route yesterday. They climbed to the Great Roof, after a night at C4, and were last seen passing onto the pitch to the Glowering spot. There was a party in the Legs but with no bags and a very late start it was obvious they were just out for a run to Dolt.

Turning the Great Roof

Muir: The three man team bailed late yesterday. Downward bound.....AAARRRGGGHHHH!

Salathe: Two parties climbed over to Hollow Flake and were on the route to the Ear today. I think both wanted to get to the ECS and may have done so.

Dihedral: Suddenly there are two parties on this old classic, the third route on the rock. One is a party of three who were hauling to the 2nd when I got out west and the other was a party of two sitting on the ledge at the end of the first pitch. A nice change for me, as this was one of the routes I did some time ago, and enjoy visiting with an old friend!

Hauling the freight on the Dihedral Wall as a raven sizes up its chances for food.

In other news: The Art auction was well attended last night and some good bargains were had. The art was interesting and of good quality. The party went on for some time. I saw TM Herbert and Glen Denny in the cafe this morning and Glen even ate with the monkeys at Chongos old table. Nice! The traffic was thick and the noise quite bothersome but several lovely ladies passed by the bridge adding a positive note to the day. I was out of there by 3pm as the action on the Cap was less than expected and I had exhausted all the photographic possibilities. The clouds were breaking up by late afternoon and the forecast looks good. So come on out!!!

I stopped by Fern Spring for water this morning.

That's the way it is, for this the 18th day of October, 2008.

Later ECP's