ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 9/19/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Kind of cloudy today in the Valley today with some sun from time to time.  The temps were moderate with some light wind.  More and more climbers are arriving for the Fall season now and many plans are afloat.  The climbers on the Trades are getting to the top now and the replacements are few and far between it seems.  But you never know because a lot of climbers just come in and head up to the cliff without stopping by the Bridge.  The Nose is still seeing a 50% bail rate, mostly from first timers who seem to be in the grip of FEAR when they enter the Legs.  Someone has fixed a line from the first Stoveleg pitch and that seems to funnel lots of the bailers to the ground.  The Salathe is actually the most crowded at the moment with wall climbers and free climbers climbing side by side.

Today’s report is brought to you by Jerry Miller, my supposed “competition” here at the bridge.  He is the guy with the big astronomy unit who posts photos of climbers he shoots every weekend.  We have a good time talking shop and watching the climbers progress.  Good on you Jerry!
Today’s ECR… now … just for you… unique in all the world…

Zodiac:  The Korean’s did climb off last night after a well run ascent.
Lower down the British team climbed off the route in the afternoon.  Tomorrow the Japanese team will do the same.  Soon the climb will be empty, waiting perhaps for YOU to show up.  Jay, Jeanette, I have held it open just for you so come on out!!  We did have one of our “young guns” go up and give a look at solo climbing it but the allure was not there and he returned quickly with a renewed dedication to free climbing but a very healthy respect for solo aid climbers. 
1)  British team of Neil and Callum Topping out on Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lost in America:  A three man team appeared out of nowhere this morning and smoked up the route, right off the ground with no fixing.  They utilized the three man speed system and by the time I left at 4pm they were doing the so called “mandatory” free pitch.  If that went well, they could do a one day ascent if they keep the pedal to the metal!  Who the hell are these guys?  They are Dave, Scott and Chip and all are very experienced, badass ElCap vets.  Yeah, now that's what I'm talking about!!
2)  Dave smoking up the third on LA.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Chip sending the mandatory free pitch on Lost in America.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tangerine Trip:  This oft done route is drawing them in once again.  The Norwegians were at the Bolt Ladders when I left and will top out tomorrow.
Ottawa Doug and partner Mike are on the route for good now and them are climbing strongly.
4)  Mike leading the classic 5th pitch on the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Ottawa Doug leading the short but fun 6th pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A solo, who you may recall fixed some a couple of days ago, was back on the route hauling to the top of three, but going no higher today.
6)  The Black Cat looking at what may be it's next meal!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose 3D:  The two man team, who struggled across the King Swing, continued toward C4 and maybe higher this afternoon.  A mixed team climbed across to C4 from the 3D traverse and appeared to get the green light to pass the other teams and moved out to C5 late in the afternoon.  The three person team (two males, one female) climbed to the Boot and another epic King Swing ensued.  The swinger tried all the wrong places and finally seemed to have it figured but surprisingly wheeled off just short of Eagle ledge.  He was not in control and cart wheeled all the way back across the swing.  It looked ugly and we were all concerned that he might really be injured.  Jerry took a video of the mishap that should be great fodder for Utube.  After a time the lad went out again and this time made the right moves… spunky, lad that!  I last saw them dragging to Grey Ledges.
Lower down a couple of teams bailed from the Legs and two parties continued on.  A three person team climbed over Dolt and headed to ECT in good order while a two man, smartly dressed, team crawled slowly up the legs and by the time I left were miles from Dolt.  Hang in there boys, tenacity will get you through! 

The Shield:  The British Team climbed off the route this afternoon.  I am sure they will have an interesting story to tell!

Chris Chan continues to amaze all onlookers with her seemingly effortless ascent of this super-classic track.  She dispatched the infamous Groove Pitch in one hour 30 minutes this morning and was heading up the triple cracks as I left.  The girl seems to have no quit in her!  The Tourons are eating it up!!

7)  Chris at the bags after leading the Groove pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  This route has taken over as the most popular line this fall.  A couple of teams are high on the route at the moment and, due to the fixed lines all the way to Hollow flake, there are plenty of replacements coming up.  Several teams have fixed above that ledge and it is getting a little ridiculous.  It was once considered bad form to fix the 4 to Sickle on the Nose … but fixing 14 pitches is a bit beyond any ethics I know of.  I guess we need a new term for these climbers…. Mmmm… let me think…. Well… Ok I have it … “Fixing Pukes“.  Royal and Tom… stay away… stay very far away, you don’t want to see this.

In other news:  The masses have started to flow in from all parts of the globe for the Face Lift.  This years event will break all records and the entertainment and prizes are off the hook.  Evening entertainment is of the highest order with all-star line ups every night and endless quantities of consumables.  Get here dudes… this is the event of the year.
So on that note I will close this report…
So that’s the way it is for this the 19th day of September 2009.
Later, Tom