ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 9/17/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Unbelievable weather today.  The air was crisp, the breeze cooling, and the sun warm.  Lots of action on the upper east side of the great rock.
There is much to write about today so I will get right to the point.
Today’s ElCap Report…

Zodiac:  The Korean team bivied at the start of the White Circle last night and were climbing the long middle pitch to the Nipple start as I arrived.  By early afternoon they were on the Nipple pitch and made progress well into the afternoon.  That famous pitch went slowly for them but them got it done and were heading higher as I departed around 4pm.

1)  Hauling and cleaning on the Nipple pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down the Japanese team from yesterday was climbing the infamous Black Tower as I arrived.  They put it behind them and were headed to the start of the Nipple when I left.  Nice colors on these lads!

2)  Black Tower

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Behind the Koreans, the British team of, Neil and Callum climbed from the top of 4 and made good progress all day.  They were headed into the Circle by 4pm.   I think the Koreans are out of reach for the lower teams now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A team of two bailed from the top of 7 earlier in the day due to some gravitationally removed equipment!  Tough to stop when so high up.

Trip:  The team of three was seen going over the top late in the afternoon.  They seemed to have a good time and a fun trip up this steep SE Face trade route.

Lower down the team of three Norwegians were seen to climb the 6th, 7th, by afternoon and were off to the 8th belay by late afternoon.  They should go a pitch higher to bivy tonight.

4)  Climbing the 9th pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Solo in a nice green shirt and white pants was seen to fix and haul the first two before knocking off for the day.

Very low down a strange thing was going on.  It seems a rare Chinook wind blew Ottawa Doug and Mike right off Zenyatta and onto the first pitch of the Trip via the Virginia start!  I think maybe Doug decided this trip was to be a vacation and not a death march!

Nose:  The action was all high up on this route today.  Two parties from yesterday did make to ECT last night and seemed to be having a routine climb toward C5. 
5)  Grey Bands Traverse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The team of two that made C5 yesterday had left for the top before I could shoot them and should be getting off by now.
A team of two dressed to the nines, was seen in the Stovelegs this morning and afternoon, making some very deliberate time utilizing a lot of direct aid techniques.  They were miles below Dolt when I left and, if they continue, will most likely spend the night there.  The conditions were excellent there all day with mild breezes and moderate temperatures.

Shield:  The British team of two climbed over the roof and onto the headwall today.  This well decked out team made good progress and had the wind, as usual, but not the cold temps. So they had a nice climb up to the start of the Groove and are most likely dusting it off as I type these lines.
6)  Belay above the Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Cleaning gear on the Shield.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rumor has it that Chris, the solo woman, was spotted on Grey Ledge and I suppose will fix some and stay the night there.  She is entirely out of my view.
8)  Salathe:  I saw a mixedteam climb to Hollow Flake ledge in the morning and bail from there in the afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Higher up a team of several climbers were seen climbing toward the Block late in the afternoon. 

In the morning I spotted a team of two at Sous le toit ledge and watched them climb the corner and roof in early afternoon.  They were headed to Long Ledge no doubt for the night.

Sunkist:  The hordes made the top late in the afternoon today.  A ranger reported hiking past the base below the teams this afternoon and finding a lot of trash and such on the ground there.  Not Good, Not Good at all.  The rumor mill has it that they are a group of French climbers from Chamonix.  
I wouldn’t be shocked if it turned out to be true, as too many of our foreign visitors seem to be clueless about respecting nature.  We need a “Jack attack” to teach these boys a lesson!  But I have no concrete evidence myself so I pass this rumor on for what it is worth.

9)  Climbing off Sunkist.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  After much frustration with my photo processing software over the years, I caught a break this morning.  Mike Schaffer happened to be at my table at breakfast and we had a chat about my problems.  He worked it a bit and seemed to come up with a solution which did not involve throwing myself off the top of Half Dome!  As if I could even hike to the top!  So hopefully I will have far less trouble working images in the future and get the results I have always wanted to get.  A big time “THANKS” goes to Mike.  I must tell you that although some may think we photographers are in some sort of competition, we are not.  I have found all the other’s to be most helpful and encouraging.  They will take whatever time they have to give advice and offer assistance when asked.  It is a pleasure to work in the company of such people!
The Bridge was nice and quiet most of the day in absolutely fabulous weather.  Later in the afternoon we had a rush of Tourons but nothing that Eric and I couldn’t handle.  Climbers almost outnumbered them with a lot of friends coming by to see what was up and greet the start of the new season on the Captain.  Now all we need is for you to get your ass in gear and show up in front of the Big Gun!  All you Face Lifter’s come on by next week when you can get some free time!
So that’s the way it is for this the 17th day of September, 2009.
Tom