El Cap Report 06/22/08

ElCap Report 6/22/08

 By Tom Evans

Yo! Guess there is a fire out to the west of the valley as there was some smoke drifting in today on the Cap. Otherwise it was nice and a little cooler maybe. We had a little gusty wind with just a few drops of rain late in the afternoon yesterday and it was hoped that would bring in the cooler weather. I had a good show last night with lots of Tourons and Monkeys in attendance. It is my last one of the spring as I am out of here in a few days. I will be back in late Sept. Most of my posse left for Sequoia this morning, leaving me and BMDJake to hold down the fort. He is off in a couple of days to do a route on the LA with a female friend who is a relative noobee to the sport. The bridge was deserted in the morning until Jingy showed up with beers and a philli-cheeze he got outside the park… nice!! So today’s report is brought to you by Jingy who was here with the goods … So kill all the prisoners, burn the buildings, scatter the animals and pay attention because here is today’s … ElCap Report…

Zodiac: Well they returned.. Yep the 6 Koreans are back on the route. They jugged up to three and sent the leader out to do the 4th. Three remained on the belay and two more were down on the belay at two with the baggage. After the leader made the belay at 4 they all moved up one step. It is interesting how they manage so many people in a single party. I did see their head man lead out on the 5ths bolt ladder, but not before placing a pin on the 5.6 traverse and making a brilliant cheater-stick move from that pin to the first bolt. Impressive climbing! In addition to the brilliant climbing these lads know just how to dress for the route. Red is quite popular and several others were sporting bright colors as well. There is a party of three getting ready to go up on the route as well and I just told them to go ahead… either the Koreans would be faster than they were, thus no problems, or slower and could be passed. Personally, I wouldn’t go near the place!!

Korean climber jugging to Zodiac

Sticking the bolt ladder on Zodiac’s 5th pitch

ZM: Big SAR Andy came up to me at the end of the show last night and told me he and Skyler were going on this route within the next few days and were hauling in the morning up to the route. I love to shoot this route although the lighting now just short of horrible.

Tribal Rite: Doug was up early this morning and got a pitch done early. He only has two left before jumping on the ending on WEML. I talked to him and he sends his love to the family and says he is doing fine. The climbing is going well and he is confident it will end well. He is the center of attention here at the Bridge but is getting kind of high on the route and not so easy to see and shoot as before.

Ottawa Doug barely visible on the great South Buttress of El Capitan

Doug traverses left to a good ledge high on Tribal Rite

Ottawa Doug about to get the shade on Tribal Rite this afternoon

Nose: Team Schneider topped out around 1pm today and Team Two was several pitches lower. I went out west and picked them up on the pitch below the Alcove so they will be off soon. So at this moment the route is most likely totally empty. I did see Chris, of Chris and Ollie, who is doing a NIAD tomorrow if all goes well. Team Two below the Alcove.

Notice how the corner erodes in curves. It was solid in 1971

Muir Wall: I did make it out west today, taking Jingy along to show him the special spots and routes that work well from there. We had some fun shooting the Team Celtic trio on this route. They were on the 5th pitch with Adam leading the long left traverse. We yelled insults about the Celtics and monkey called them too. They called back, most likely not hearing the insults! It was kind of warm over there. What is the name of the third guy? There is Adam, Mash and (?). They looked fine and I think are on the route to stay.

Team Celtics on the Muir Wall around the 5th pitch

In other news: Pete cruised by late today searching for his porters and came with the news that Kate’s house was threatened with the grass fires burning south and west of the Park. They are on hold until things are settled in that arena. I still have no details about Yugi and Hans but will see what I can come up with tonight. The wall is pretty empty and the weather is supposed to get somewhat cooler in the next few days. So… it is now or now or never for the spring season… summer is rapidly descending on us so make up your mind!

That’s all the news I have for you today the 22nd day of June 2008.

Out of here… ECP’s