ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/16/08

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Nice here today but a little on the hot side. The breeze was good here in the rats nest at the Bridge. All the usual suspects here today with a couple ST posters coming by to say hi and hang in the meadow. The action was brisk on the Nose route today and I will tell you more below in the body of the report. The report is brought to you today by Dave Turner who did a nice flip off the, across the river, slack line this afternoon. Today’s report follows:

Zodiac: Pat and Emily stepped over the top today around 1:30pm today. They had it all under control and must have had an interesting time. I did talk with the Cossey brothers in the café this morning and they were watching when E took her two nice plunges on the pitch below the Nipple pitch. They said she was very composed and got back to the business pretty fast. They chatted with her and Pat as they were setting the belay. They reported the Nipple pitch was not so climbable in the present conditions but just might be back in the fall to give it a go. They did see some nice climbing on their way off the route.

Pat Bagley juggs up the pitch above Peanut Ledge

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/PatBagleyjuggsupthepitchabovePeanut.jpg[/IMG]

Emily Stifler leads the slab pitch just below the top on Zodiac

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/EmilyStiflerleadstheslabpitchjustbe.jpg[/IMG]

Pat and Emily top out on Zodiac earlier today

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/EmilyandPattoppingouttodayonZodiac.jpg[/IMG]

New Dawn to Tribal Rite. I did see Ottawa Doug in those outrageous lime green pants, from last year, climb to Lay Lady ledge this afternoon. He was hoping to make it there as the ledge is deluxe and it is a good way to start the adventure. He looked smooth and it was like he had just gotten off Mescalito, his last year’s solo. Keep it rolling Doug!!

Ottawa Doug traversing on the 5th pitch of New Dawn to Tribal Rite

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/OttawaDougtraversingon5thpitchofNew.jpg[/IMG]

Nose: Interesting day on the Nose. The NIAD teams outnumbered the traditional wall teams by 3 to 1. Hans Florine and partner were at the head of the charge and were off the wall by about 2 I think.

Partner leads Hans Florine across the Jardine Traverse Nose Route

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/PartnerleadsHansFlorineacrosstheJar.jpg[/IMG]

Legendary Hans Florine leads the Pancake Flake on the Nose

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/LegendaryHansFlorineleadspartnerupt.jpg[/IMG]

Below them I think it was Fred (New Hampshire) and his girlfriend Janet. Janet was leading her stuff and did a swift job on the King Swing. They were seen heading out of camp 5 when I left around 4pm.

Fred leads toward Boot Flake Nose route

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/MilesSmartleadshiswifeLizuptheBootf.jpg[/IMG]

Janet nails the King Swing on the first try

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/LizSmarthitstheKingSwingonthefirstt.jpg[/IMG]

Below them was a slower NIAD crew that was last seen going at the Great Roof around 4pm. They have a long climb tonight! Below those three teams was the woman’s team of Joy and Sarah from Colorado, real cuties but both married so don’t get any ideas telescope viewers! I saw Joy leading in the lower Stove legs and she made good time doing some nice free climbing. They were at Dolt Tower around 4pm. I talked with Joys husband who was also pleased with the progress. ElCap Tower bivy? You go girls!!

Nose Girls Joy and Sarah almost to Dolt Tower shot from a long way off

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/NoseGirlsJoyandSarahalmosttoDoltTow.jpg[/IMG]

I did see some activity on Sickle ledge but just a fixing and hauling expedition. We will see who appears in the stove legs tomorrow.

Dihedral Wall. I saw the lads over there climbing past the large roof just to the left of the route a pitch below the Black Cave. They are making good progress and just might be off tomorrow depending on if they do the chicken shit West Butt escape or the last 4 pitches of the real route.

Lurking Fear: I did get a shot of this route from way out west. I saw a team of two starting the 4th pitch late in the afternoon after they appeared to have fixed earlier. The solo I talked to yesterday had hauled to the start of the Window Pane flake and was out on lead when I last saw him. Everything looked good from my vantage point.

In other news: Corbin set up an nice slack line all the way across the river a little down stream and parallel with the bridge this afternoon. Several of the monkeys tried it and were not getting it done. Corbin then sent it several times much to the delight of the Tourons at the bus stop.

Corbin staying dry on the long line across the river today

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/Corbinstayingdryonthecrossriverslac.jpg[/IMG]

Corbin showing Hayden Matt and Dave how it is done on the long line

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/Corbinshowingtheboyshowitisdone.jpg[/IMG]

Lots of other people showed up and a nice day was had by all. Several teams wandered by with talk of going on the wall within the next few days. I got some nice shots and got a shock at Crane Flat… I got 20 gallons of gas for my road locomotive and the bill was $100. That was the limit there, so I didn’t even fill the 35 gallon tank! Pictures for sale!!!! Cash only!!! The weather is supposed to get a little cooler later in the week, depending on which weather forecast you put your trust in. Come on out!

So that’s the way it is for this the 16th day of June 2008, my 64th birthday.

I’m out of here… ECP’s