El Cap Report 06/15/08

ElCap Report 6/15/08

By Tom Evans

Yo… A nice day here if a little on the warm side. The Great Rock is virtually empty at this time. So there was a lot of time to just sit around and talk and munch out. Lots of climbers were in and out. The Touron population was low. Several Tourons came by who had been at the show last night and said it was fun and informative too. I had some computer glitch that turned off the projector. I didn’t know what was up and was about to give up when it suddenly came back on again. Anyway I need to update it a bit as I am getting bored doing the same one over and over.

Today’s report is brought to you by Ottawa Doug who brought a ton of food and drink down the bridge this morning so all the folks could eat well today. OD is blasting on NDtoTR tomorrow early with hopes of reaching Lay Lady Ledge by dark. He is well situated to do it too. He seems a little nervous but that is the case for a lot of climbers about to embark on a big climb. Anyway today’s report:

Zodiac: Emily Stifler and Pat Bagley continue to roll along up this route, a step up for both of them. Pat was leading this day as Emily was on point yesterday. They climbed the three pitches from the end of the Nipple pitch to the Peanut ledge, where I assume they will bivy and climb off tomorrow. Both are climbing well and should have a story to tell.

Emily lowering out the bags before the sun gets on them Zodiac

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/EmilyLoweringoutthebagsMarkofZorrop.jpg[/IMG]

Emily cleaning while Pat hauls the bags on Zodiac

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/EmilycleaningtheMarkofZorropitchwhi.jpg[/IMG]

Emily cleaning Mark of Zorro pitch

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/EmilycleaningtheMarkofZorropitch.jpg[/IMG]

Pat leads around the Devils Eyebrow on Zodiac

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/PatleadsaroundDevilsEyebrowonZodiac.jpg[/IMG]

Pat leads out toward Peanut Ledge in a shot taken from great distance

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/PatBagleyleadsoutonthepitchtoPeanut.jpg[/IMG]

Tangerine Trip: Matt Meinzer and Ryan Frost came down this morning after a push on this route in just a little over 24 hours. These guys are setting the style for SE Face routes this spring with two such pushes in the past week and a half. Good going guys!

New Dawn to Tribal Rite: Ottawa Doug is fixed and ready to go on this long route. He has 4 fixed and a good plan for the route. He has a cell phone and will talk to his family at night and to me with a radio if conditions warrant. We all wish him the best of luck and good climbing.

Nose: Another team of women has fixed to Sickle and is ready to go on the Nose. They are Joy and Sarah. Sarah’s sister came by to say high and look at the team through the scope this afternoon. I noticed two men hauling to Sickle late in the day so they are in the mix too. I did see a team, most likely the 3D team, going over the top this morning. Good job!!

Climbers topping out on the Nose

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/LastpitchoftheNose.jpg[/IMG]

Dihedral Wall: The two man team out there was leading the pitch above the Flake when I shot them around 3:30 pm. They are making good time in the heat over there.

Lurking Fear. I did talk with a guy who is going out to solo this route starting today. He had been on it 22 years ago and is looking to recapture the golden days. I don’t remember his name… perhaps a reader will know.

In other news: Well there isn’t much news today it seems. Things are slow and calm here at the rats nest. Some of the guys are getting ready to solo some stuff but have not escaped the high gravitational pull of the Bridge itself. It is so easy to sit and look that some climbers seem happier here than on the rocks!

So that’s the way it is on this the 15th day of June 2008.

That’s it! ECP’s