ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/8/08

By Tom Evans

Alright, listen up desk jockeys and cubicle geeks… this is the shit from the main Bridge Rat here at the scene of the action on the Cap. Perfect day here with masses of climbers hanging out. I guess it is Sunday, as all the puff daddy café rats suddenly left from the café this morning around the time church starts! They all returned red eyed from singing those hymns and praying so hard, I suppose. Anyway, it was nice down at the bridge even though the action on the Captain was somewhat abbreviated. So here is the report for today brought to you by a couple of smoking hot climber girls from Santa Cruz who happened by after a climb to look through the scope. They didn’t stay long in spite of the efforts of Lucho, “the Lover“, and Dave, “the Bone“, Turner’s best efforts to entice them to remain.

Here it is … today’s ElCap report…

Aurora: I got down to shoot around 9:30 am and Ken was standing on top of the Cap taking off the rack. Nice job Ken… it was really fun trying to find you against the features of the rock, dressed as you were. In spite of that you did make a really fine ascent of a great, seldom done route. Best wishes and have a safe trip home… good luck facing the little lady who appears be less that pleased with your color selection!

Mescalito: I saw Ollie and Chris doing the last pitch around 3:30 pm when I left. Nice job lads!

Ollie leads next to last pitch on Mescalito

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Last two pitches of Mescalito, can you see the line?

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Lower down I saw Simon clean and haul the Bismarck pitch this morning and climb a couple above later in the day… maybe off tomorrow?

Nose: I did catch a glimpse of the “Russian Team” leading the last pitch around 3 today and they are most likely off by now. Good work men!

Lower down I saw the all woman’s team of Kate Rutherford and Madeline, from SAR, climbing the route at a fast clip hoping for an in a day ascent. They looked strong and climbed well. Kate hit the king swing on the first try after taking a long look that proved to be accurate. But they languished somewhat in the gray bands and Kate was seen leading the Great Roof as I departed… they just might pull it off but have a lot of aiding to do yet and they aren’t exactly aid climbers!

Madeline leading above Dolt Tower

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Kate and Madeline short fixing above Dolt Tower

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Kate checks out the King Swing

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Kate sticks the King Swing on the first try

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Lower down yet I saw a team of two climbing the stove legs to Dolt Tower this morning and afternoon. I talked to the lads the day before yesterday and one insisted in wearing a Celtics jersey up the route thinking it would be a big money maker on Ebay, if he succeeded on the route. Maybe some will want the jersey of the losing team in the NBA championship series? They were at least persistent if not rapid.

Team Celtics on Dolt Tower Nose route

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Salathe. I did see Stanley (Sean Leary) and Leo Holding streaking up the Free Rider in an attempt to link it with the NWFHD in a day. Last seen climbing above Sus Le Toit ledge at 3:30pm.

Leo Holding traversing into the Monster Crack

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Stanley and Leo climbing the Monster Crack

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Various other parties were seen below around the vicinity of the Ear. Others were seen toping out early in the morning. Mook and friend were down from FR and hung at the bridge for quite a time looking at the above team. This route is still quite popular. I did catch a glimpse of Ben Cossey on the skyline high on FR.

Ben Cossey peeking around the corner, high on Free Rider

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In other news: My slide show at the lodge last night was well attended and we all had some good laughs, mostly at my expense! Thanks to all who came out. Heroes of recent ascents of the Cap were here at the bridge today to bask in the glory and grossly exaggerate the truth of their ascents. Lucho and Chilli were in particular demand from the guys wanting beta for FR. Matt came in later with KFC to get some psyche points. Pete, Holly and Lorna stopped by on their way to the showers after getting down from the Cap. The girls made an especially nice climb of the Shield. Pete and Mark had a good time on SSPO. The elusive, but great, Hollywood, stopped by to talk shop for a time. When he left the response from a few of the guys was, “who was that dude?” You need to hang out more Hans! We had a fun time today and I am taking my posse to the Pavilion later this evening for a victory meal, as Dave, Matt and Lucho are down from sending. I would have asked Nicki but he is not around, preferring instead to hold hands and whisper sweet nothings into his girls ear! I guess I would rather hang out with a pretty lady than some smelly climbers!! Anyway that’s the way it is here at the Deck of the most famous grade separation device in the history of the American, and perhaps world, climbing scene.

Bringing it home on this the 8th day of June 2008, this is ECP’s from the Deck. Bye bye..